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Akumal, Mexico Trip Report

April 2009

  • Home
  • Hacienda La Tortuga
  • Places to Eat
  • Yal-Ku Lagoon
  • Snorkeling
  • Tulum
  • Carroll's Blog

Akumal, Quintana Roo

 

 

We spent a week in the sleepy little town of Akumal in April of 2009. Akumal is a great place to relax and get away from the "crowds" at the all inclusive resorts.

 

 

Hacienda de La Tortuga

We stayed at Hacienda de la Tortuga while in Akumal. It is a sister property to La Mirage. The picture to the right shows La Tortuga on the left and La Mirage on the right.

The condo was very nice. It is in no way "luxurious" but a very nice place to stay in Akumal.

We were in room 12 on the top floor. This is a one bedroom unit with living room and kitchen. The unit was large and very clean. The back bedroom is air conditioned but we never used it because there was a great breeze which blew through the unit each night.

The kitchen was nicely stocked with a microwave, stove, fridge and lots of cookware.

We also had a large container of fresh drinking water which was perfect for making ice and coffee.

The picture to the right shows the nice walk in shower.

The one drawback was that the TV did not have cable. So there were only two Spanish speaking channels available.

But there is a DVD player so thankfully we brought some Netflix movies with us which we watched throughout the week.

The unit is located directly on the beach. The balcony was large and included a nice hammock.

To the left and the right were great views of Half Moon Bay.

The beach in front of the condo is nice but it is NOT a swimming beach. Once you walk into the water you hit some major rocky landscape. But the beach itself is nice and it is a nice place to snorkel.

Overall, we recommend Hacienda de la Tortuga as a comfortable no frills condo on Half Moon Bay. Would we return? Yes.

Places to Eat in the Riveria Maya

We really liked La Lunita. It is a little beachside restaurant that is located at Hacienda de la Tortuga.

The restaurant is only open in the evenings. We ate there twice and both meals were very good.

It is a little more pricey than other restaurants in Akumal, but only slightly and we thought the atmosphere and food quality was worth the extra cost.

I had the Grouper with tequila cream sauce and Carroll had the steak with a shallot sauce. Both dishes were muy bueno.

We spent a lot of time at La Buena Vida. We loved the bar but thought the food was pretty mediocore.

They have free internet so it was a great place to take the ITouch and check email.

The tables are right on the beach and they have some nice swinging chairs that look out over the ocean. The happy hour is daily from 6 to 7. Cervezas were half price which brought them down to 15 pesos.

The food at Buena Vida was OK but not that great. Our favorite menu choice was an appetizer for two dish which was plenty for both of us for dinner.

We stopped at Zamas for lunch after touring Tulum in the morning. This was a great little place located directly on the beach. We thought the food was very good and the prices were also very reasonable.

I had the tostada. (Shown above) It was great. We had a table that overlooked the beach. Good food and service. W recommend this place.

While in Playa del Carmen we stopped and had some beer and chips at Playa Maya. Playa Maya is on the beach and has always delivered decent food and service.

Wow, has Playa del Carmen grown in the last 5 years? We were shocked at how the town has progressed in such a short time. We remember dirt streets not to long ago....

Playa Maya is one of many beachside places along the beach in Playa del Carmen.

The beach at Playa del Carmen looked pretty good, considering all of the hurricanes that they have recently had.

By far, our most expensive meal was getting a cheeseburger and margarita at Margaritaville at the Cancun airport. The food and drinks were very good but darn pricey.

 

Yal-Ku Lagoon

We decided to spend one morning at Yal-Ku Lagoon and we were glad we did. This place has really grown!

The entrance fee has increased. It was $9 USD or $110 Pesos per person. But the park has added a lot of very cool art that really adds a new dimensionality to the experience.

We arrived at 9:00 AM and it was pretty quiet. The lagoon is protected, so even though Half Moon Bay was very windy, it was calm in the lagoon.

There are steps that allow for easy entry into the water. The water was a little cool, since it is a mix of salt and fresh water.

This time we snorkeled within the lagoon and we did not venture out towards the bay. The snokeling was better in the lagoon (to the left) rather than out towards the bay (to the right).

There aren't tons of fish, but there are plenty and it is very cool snorkeling among the rock formations.

The art has been put out amongst the lagoon which really made for some nice picturesque scenes.

Make sure you arrive early, because after 10 AM the "tours" arrive and it makes it a little less enjoyable.

An iguana did not like the fact that we put our snorkel bag next to his home.

Snorkeling in Akumal

Akumal has a decent places to snorkel. Unfortuneately, while we were there, the water was rough due to high winds.

You'll find Akumal about 20 miles south of Playa del Carmen. The beach town is located about 1/2 mile from Highway 307.

Probably the best place to park is before you see the arch. There is a parking lot to the right that offers free parking. From there, it is an easy walk to the water.

Akumal Bay is where you will find lots of turtles. We only saw one, but the day we went out there were red flags and the visibility was pretty stirred up.

You'll see a restaurant called Lol Ha. If you swim out from there you will see some buoys. These buoys keep the boats away from the "turtle areas". So swim toward the buoys.

We also snorkeled in Half Moon Bay. The main reef is located in front of La Mirage. The bay is very shallow so it wasn't ideal, but there is a lot of sea life.

We actually saw more from our balcony than we did snorkeling. From our balcony we saw lots of turtles, rays and barracuda.

Tulum

We went back to Tulum because it is such a beautiful place. The park was about $8 USD a person.

This time I "opened the wallet" and purchased the train fare. This saves you walking about 1/2 mile each way from the parking lot to the site. It was $2 USD a person (roundtrip) and worth it if it is hot.

We didn't purchase a tour guide, so we leisurely walked through the site.

This was very strange. The picture to the right was taken 6 years ago. The picture to the left was taken this trip. Notice that there is an iguana at the SAME place. I think maybe the new smaller iguana is the child of the iguana from 6 years ago? Maybe that family of iguanas "own" that perch?

The site is very pretty because it is located directly on the ocean.

More scenic shots.

Afterwards we saw a Mayn show which included some Mayans climbing a pole which had ropes tied around the top.

Then another guy climbs up the pole and he steadies the platform.

Then they hang from the top and the rope "unwinds" as they spin around the pole. They took donations and it was good fun.

 

Carroll's Akumal Blog

 

Friday, April 17, 2009
The first leg of our journey was from Sacramento to LAX. We flew out at 8:30 and arrived in LA at 9:30 PM. Our flight was supposed to be at 7:10 but was delayed. Once in LA we took a shuttle to the LAX Marriott.
We checked in and then went to the Sports Bar for a small bite to eat. We were in bed by 11:30. At 5:00 AM we awoke and took the shuttle back to the airport.

Saturday,April 11, 2009
We checked in with Alaska Airlines for our 8:15 flight. Once through security we had a quick breakfast at the food court. We then found out after breakfast that our flight was delayed.

On a side note... when we were checking in there was a very irate man at the counter ranting at the gate agents. Dave said, "you watch he will probably be sitting by us." While we ate breakfast he and his family sat by us. The wife was very cool to him and he was still angry. While we waited to board he was still hounding the gate agent about whatever his problem was... Not a happy start to his vacation.

As we boarded the plane we found out that he was upset because his family of 5 was not seated together. His wife and young son were seated directly across from us.. Oh joy!

There were many large family groups on the plane since this was spring break. The atmosphere was very noisy and joyful.... except for the crying babies. This was by far the noisiest flight we have ever flown. At one point, the kid across from us decided to get up and run down the aisle WHILE WE WERE LANDING. I grabed the kid and then he threw a fit. Yelling and screaming and looking at me. I gave him my "teacher look" but it didn't seem to help....

We arrived in Cancun about an hour late. We had to wait quite a while to get through immigration because it was so busy. Once through, we collected our luggage, breezed through customs and checked in at the rental car gate. The agent escorted us through the guantlet of timeshare hawkers to the shuttle to go get our car. Check in for our Avis rental car was fairly painless. In the past they have tried to sell us timeshare demos by trying to entice us with discount rentals, excursions, etc. This time they asked us where we were staying and when we told him a condo in Akumal they left us alone. I think they looked at the condition of our well-traveled, past its prime luggage, and figured we were too poor to purchase a timeshare.

By 4:30 we were finally on the road to Akumal. We stopped in Playa del Carmen to pick up a few groceries and get some Pesos. We arrived in Akumal just after 6 and found our key stuck to the office door as the office had closed.

The room was on the fourth floor with a beautiful view. Dave had a heck of a time lugging the luggage up those four floors.... poor guy :>) We had a few minutes to unload our groceries and survey our surroundings and then we were off to dinner.

Dave had made reservations at La Lunita for dinner at 7:00 PM. We were seated at a beach-side table. There is nothing better than starting a vcation with your toes in the sand and having dinner with the one you love. We split an order of Calamari with a fantastic tamarind sauce. Dave ordered the Grouper in a tequila cream sauce. I ordered the filte of beef in a shallot sauce. I realized right away that I wasn't going to be able to make a dent in my beef so I save most of it for lunch the next day. Both meals were delectable. We spent around $55 USD for dinner and drinks. A perfect begining to our vacation...

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Since today was a major holiday we decided to lay low and not do too much. I prepared bacon and eggs for breakfast and we unpacked and settled into our condo, (number 12), at Hacienda Tortugas.

We walked to Yal Ku Lagoon and then back to La Buena Vida. Dave checked email on my ITouch and we decided it was the best bar in Akumal.

We feasted on left over steak, cheese, and crackers for lunch and then read the afternoon away. I think we each snuck in a nap.

We ate dinner back at La Buena Vida. The food was not as good as what we had at La Lunita. Dave had a Cuban Rice Special and I had the Chicken Enchiiladas con Mole. Everthing was edible but forgetable.

We returned to our room and watched a game show on one of the two channels we could get on our TV. Doble Cara is a trivia type game show and it was fun to practice our Spanish. (Doble Cara is the Mexican version of "Poker Face") We got about 2 to 3 questions of every 5 correcto. Mostly they were just lucky guesses.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Today we had planned to go to Playa del Carmen to properly provision up for the rest of the week. The dozen eggs, pack of bacon, and a six pack of beer we bought on Saturday just wasn't going to hold us over for the rest of the week. Our first stop was Sam's Club. Dave has a business membership so we were able to get in early. Unlike home, this Sam's had a very different feel. There was actually one long aisle of just fans. The wine selection was mostly French and Chilean. It was fairly devoid of the consumate book selection up by the registers. We purchased some beer and water and was able to pay with our VISA. (unlike home)

We then drove to Walmart and parked our car in their covered garage. We quickly checked out a few prices and then walked to the tourist district. We walked around a few of the shops and ended up on the beach to enjoy a few cervezas and chips and salsa.

Back at Walmart we did the rest of our shopping. Dave picked up a few t-shirts. We rounded out our grocery shopping. We also go some duct tape to mend our travel weary luggage that separated at a seam on the trip down. (Last trip our old Greenie! it is only 20 years old... I guess it is not still under warranty) Thanks Gram Gatten for the wonderful gift that has accompanied us on so many wonderful adventures!

We returned to our abode in Akumal and enjoyed a lunch of salami, cheese and crackers. Dave and I read the afternoon away. At 5:30 or so we headed down to La Buena Vida for happy hour and to check e-mail.

We ate dinner at Cueva de Pescador. Dave had the chicken fajitas which were very good. I had the steak. The steak was basically just a well seasoned round steak.. a little chewy. There were no sides so basically it was just steack with a dollop of cole slaw. Overall I was not impressed with what I ordered but Dave loved his meal. The place was very busy and had a good vibe.

We watched Madagascar2 when we got back to our condo. Boring move that neither one of us saw to the end.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Woke up a did some reading. Dave has been reading "The House of Mondavi". Since he worked for Mondavi during the glory days, this expose was quite intriguing for him. I was reading Anthony Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential". The closest I've come to working in a kitchen was my Dairy Queen days in Woodward, OK but none the less it is an intriguing read.

I made us a great breakfast of a fried egg sandwich. We love staying in a condo because your morning is not too rushed... wake up... enjoy coffee... leisurely breakfast...dress... go snorkel. How much better can life get?

We drove to Akumal bay and snorkeled out to see the turtles. The surge was mighty and we only saw one turtle. The dive shop had advised us that vis was pretty bad but we kicked out anyway. It is always good to get a good kick in the morning.

So far this trip the ocean conditions have been red flag and not ideal. On the other hand it has not been too hot so it is a trade off.

We beached it for the afternoon and enjoyed our location on Half Moon Bay. We saw a ray cavorting off shore but the surf was too surgy to go in.

After an appropriate amount of sun we headed upstairs to clean up. At 5:30 we headed off to La Buena Vida to check our email and enjoy 2X1 happy hour.

We dined for dinner at Imelda's. Dave had fajitas and I had grilled chicken. Both meals were tasty. We spent $180 pesos for dinner but not they didn't server alcohol so the bill would probably have been larger.

We returned to our room and watched "Twilight". Neither of us were impressed. We fell asleep before the movie ended.

Wednesday, April 15,2009

Today we planned to visit Tulum. We were on the road by 8:00 and arrived at Tulum at 8:30. by the time we paid for parking, tram, and admission we had spent nearly $20 USD. We walked around for the better part of an hour. As we returned to the parking area and shops there were dancers in costumes which climbed up a pole and wrap ropes around it. They then all twirl around upside down utnil they reached the ground. it was quite a spectacle.

We drove to the beachside area of Tulum and ate lunch at a little restaurant called Zamas. Dave had a tostada and I had a chicken quesadilla.

We returned to Akumal at around 12:30. Dave decided to go for a quick snorkel since the water looked the calmest since our arrival. He said the water was fairly clear but he was tossed about quite a bit. We read the afternoon away and then headed down to La Buena Vista for happy hour. We checked our email. We ordered the botanera to split for dinner. It was pretty good.

We returned and watched the end of "Twilight" again. We still weren't impressed.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

We woke up and had a nice breakfast ala Carroll in our condo. I had some left over steak and created an omelet with it.

We then walked down to Yal Ku to snorkel the lagoon. They have made many improvements to the grounds over the years. There are many beautiful sculptures and the gardens are nicely landscaped.

We snorkeled the lagoon for the better part of an hour. We had brought our dive skins so we were able to stay in without getting cold. The rock formations are quite pretty. Once it started getting busy we decided our time was up. We packed up our gear and walked back to our room.

We relaxed and read for the majority of the afternoon. We ate dinner again at La Buena Vida and had appetizers and drinks since we weren't that hungry.

We watched the last of the DVD's that we had brought along. It was a Jett Li movie called Fearless. It was actually pretty good despite having to read subtitles.

Friday, April 17, 2009

Our last full day in Akumal was a take-it-easy day. Dave prepared breakfast. We then drove into the beachside village and did our last minute shopping.

We sat on the beach by our condo and enjoyed the beautiful Caribbean sea. We thought the water was a little less rough. So we snorkeled out into Half Moon Bay. We were wrong... it was quite surgy. When we were walking up to our room, from the beach, a man asked us "Como esta usted?" Dave said "Bien" I paused and said "Muy Bien, Gracias." I then went on to complete the dialog from my Spanish I class. "Donde esta la biblioteca?" He chuckled and said "La Biblioteca es in Akumal. Donde esta la tequila?" Dave replied, "Tequila es en La Buena Vida" We all chuckled and went our separate ways. Who knew Spanish class would come in so handy?

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Today is "leaving day" so we had the chore of packing everything up so we could go home... A chore we never enjoy. It didn't take too long and we were packed and finished with breakfast by 9:00.