June 29
Davis. We are getting packed and ready.
Anticipation and excitement. Sleepless but may be a plus for plane
napping. Just want to make sure all is confirmed & nothing of
importance is left behind.
June 30
4:30 A.M. Airporter calls. Driver didn’t show.
Sent a taxi. Driver played good music. Kind of Joe Satriani at half
energy but same style only more laid back. Driver had problems with
card. Lower functioning fellow, I believe. Check in was smooth and
we did it in less than an hour. Arrival in Atlanta on time muggy and
clear. Took a very long but badly needed walk. Felt good but luggage
toting was a pain. May reconsider original plan and purchase larger
bag in Rome. Very long flight at this point. 6 hours down 3 to go.
Napped some but not much.
July 1
Arrived in Rome and went through customs
easily. The tour hosts were readily available and the bus that we
will spend many hours on took us to the Star Hotel Michaengelo where
I discovered my glasses were left on the plane. Our tour guide,
Elena, made several phone calls to no avail.
Went sight seeing as St. Peters is 2 blocks
from hotel. The 110 bus, an open air contraption, was pretty good.
13 Euros and saw pretty much all of Rome on a hot muggy day. Also
extensive tour of the coliseum with a witty and politically astute
guide. Dinner with musicians was included. 4 courses anti pasti, a
bean soup, pasta, salad with main course of beef and chicken.
Exhausted and sweating. To the showers and bed.
July 2
Bus to Pompeii via Napoli. Nice drive along
main highway. Stop at massive refueling super mart type of store.
They sold nearly everything toys, groceries, reading material,
toiletries, fast food, etc. You name, it they sold it. Excellent
marketing for the traveler. Tour of Pompeii was real good. We, in
the 21st century are not the epitome of civilzation. Pompeii had
astute city planning, streets, neighborhoods, waste and sewer
systems. They also had commodity trading systems and judicial
systems - criminals were sold as slaves. Very impressive site. Have
heard that Hurcucleum is even more impressive. Our 9 and 11 year old
traveling companions will offer an outstanding response to a writing
prompt “I was getting my photo taken with a plaster cast of a dead
body” or an intriguing “what I did on my summer vacation” essay. Was
quite hot, dusty and very crowded.
Went then to Sorrento. A pretty town but
crowded and quite touristy. Went by boat to Capri. Boat rides are
always fun but there was no outside seating and experiencing the
ocean in the cabin is 2nd rate.
Got into Capri late after noon. As the
topography is a mountain, one takes a funicular from the marina
section up to the town where the hotels, restaurants, bars and
tourist shops are. High end and over priced. The hotel we stayed
at, La Residenza had a beautiful location with a view of the bay.
The room was very nice with tile everywhere and 2 bathrooms.
Downside was it was in the basement. Dinner at the hotel was
mediocre. Pasta with ragu sauce, dry salmon, undistinguished wine
and stuffy waiter. Have become familiar with some of the tour. 9
report lost luggage. Capri is no place to have to replace clothing.
Tee shirts running 35 euros. Worse news for Ernie, a honeymooning
high school teacher and football coach whom at 6 foot plus and 300
pounds, nothing will fit.
Slept fitfully body hasn’t adjusted yet.
July 3
Capri HAPPY ANNIVERSAY. We are very happy
contented and satisfied with our situation. We received toasts,
congratulations and wonder at our tale.
Took a tour of Anacapri, a small town even
higher than Capri, an enchanting village of 1400. Here we took a
tour of Villa San Michele. Built by a Dr. / musician / archeologist
/ engineer / philanthropist.
Villa San Michele
The road up to Anacapri was very narrow and
winding. There are the remains of 737 steps cut into the cliff from
the sea to the village. This stairway was constructed in Roman
times.
After returning to Capri we got a slice of
pizza and Jan had lunch in a garden area of the hotel. Early
afternoon we took a boat tour around the entire island. A very nice,
enjoyable cruise. Elena suggested a restaurant much better than the
hotel. After that, went with traveling companions for cappuccino. 8
coffees 46 euros, however money well spent
Slept much better with an amazing
thunderstorm.
July 4
Left Capri on ferry to Naples, a busy port
town. About 30 minute ride. 9 celebrants finally get long lost
luggage. Bus drove to Assisi. About 5 hours including lunch and pit
stops. Italian pit stops are quite unique. “Autogrill” has large
well-maintained wc - be sure to tip the attendant. “Auto Grill” also
has multiple eating areas menus as well as shopping – hams, salamis,
cheeses, toys books, pharmacy, etc., etc.
Arrive in Assisi and toured this beautiful
ancient town. Saw monks and nuns as well as young (13 – 15 years
old) campers. Their chatter and enthusiasm spread melodically as a
sonata along the narrow streets.
In my opinion, was the best hotel so far. Our
room had a terrace with a wonderful view of the valley and hills in
the distance. A modern facility with a congenial staff. After dinner
watched world cup. Got tired went up to the room for shave and
shower. Not 10 seconds after drying off, Italy scores, then scores
again for the win.
July 5
Drove to Venice. A long drive. No walking
today. Stopped in the small village of Pomposa. Visited an abbey
with gorgeous mosaics. Got lunch and a beer from merchants set up at
the roadside rest stop. Continued to Venice. 1st stop was for the
gondola ride complete with an accordion and tenor. Both young bucks
who probably listen to American pop. Nice experience - better than I
had anticipated. Got to the hotel and checked in. I then went out to
correct a packing mistake. Should have brought larger bag. Got it
right around the corner from hotel. Great store run by Asians. Sold
vegetables, personal grooming, books, luggage and beer.
Later - Went on a boat cruise with dinner and
wine. Very nice dinner. Unusual conversation in that some of the
companions bemoaned and missed American things ice, bigger showers,
etc. Venice is going past at sunset and you talk hamburgers?? Come
on, we traveled 8,500 miles and spent in excess of $6,000 to get
away! Beautiful evening strolling piazza San Marco. Some crowds but
not bad. Romantic, magical and inspiring. Will go back tomorrow.
July 6
Tour left early to go to Murano one of the
many islands that make up Venice. Murano is famous for glass
blowing. Saw an interesting demonstration and an annoying sales
pitch. Went through sales room & resisted the $11,000 chandelier.
Took boat back to main area with Doges palace San Marco, etc. Guided
tour of both places was too quick and perfunctory. Guide pleasant &
knowledgeable. A Japanese tourist got mixed up with our group, which
resulted in a comical international incident. The poor Asian tourist
was really lost & separated from her companions. The crowds were
huge. Extremely dense hoards everywhere.
Venice is a fascinating & beautiful city with
charm & character. 100s of twisted meandering streets. Some dead
ending, some going over a canal, some ending in a bizarre, out of
kilter intersection that spreads like an amoeba in 3 new & different
directions.
Jan’s ankle is quite swollen. Lots of walking
& marathon plane ride did her in. We did meander a long time seeing
an opera house, buying 2 etchings & enjoying refreshment of
tomatoes, mozzarella, beer & ice cream. People & boat watching at a
side walk cafe. Dinner at the hotel then sleep. Tomorrow we are off
to Montecatini and the Tuscany district.
July 7
Left hotel at 0800 for a long drive to Pisa.
Very pretty countryside & scenery. Arrive Pisa 1245. The entire town
is set up for touristas. Hoards of tour busses park in a parking lot
and a Disneyland / Mickey/ Minnie train thing takes you to the plaza
where a grave yard, baptistery, church & infamous tower are
surrounded by bazillions of hawkers preying on bazillions of
touristas. The piazza & historical buildings are fascinating & truly
gorgeous as well as significant and worthy of admiration. Way too
many tee shirts & crowds. However, the piazza is among the 1,000
things to see before you die & one of the 7 wonders of the world.
Later we went to a working farm / restaurant /
winery / olive oil place. Great marketing plan. Nice tour of the
farm facility and the food was quite good. Anti pasta, pasta and
main course of grilled meats. Lots of wine – quite good. The best so
far. Dancing and music followed. An octogenarian travel companion
sang a song and the musician actually accompanied her. He usually
did pre-sequenced stuff on a keyboard. All had a great time. Wished
they shipped wine to the U.S. Farms in Italy are much smaller & more
diverse. A few rows of this & a couple of rows of that. Back to
Montecatini & bed.
July 8
Expedition to Florence. Tour of city, art
gallery and Medici palace then saw “David” in academy. Then did
optional tour of Uffizi gallery went with Lewis ... saw “Birth Of
Venus” & “Springtime” by Bottecelli. Both spectacular. Leonardo da
Vinci was well represented as an inventor & engineer. Jan went
shopping. Long drive from Florence to Rome. Italy defeats France to
win world cup. Bedlam & celebration erupt. Rome is absolutely the
place to be tonight as Italians erupt with passion and fervor, which
will be repeated tomorrow as the President greets the team and a
parade is planned.
July 9 and 10
Up very early to go to tour Vatican. Extremely
crowded. Vatican museum was rushed but fascinating. The Sistine
chapel was gorgeous. More than I imagined, somewhat smaller as well.
Butt to elbow crowds. Same with St. Peters basilica. The basilica
was much larger than I imagined. All in all the Vatican is worth the
trip. Actually on the go straight from 0700 to 1400. Rested up at
the hotel then did the on and off topless bus tour again. Missed our
stop but found our way back easily. Nice farewell dinner with wine &
music. The bus ride back was fantastic!! After throwing 3 coins in
the Tevi fountain, we had to walk a good 40 minutes out of our way
because of world cup victory celebrations. Not only did the coach
get stuck in exuberant traffic, we got to be in the middle of it
with the best seats of all! We were above the crowd in an
air-conditioned bus with Antonio driving. What a celebration! What
passion! What enthusiasm! What an experience! Very peaceful but
exuberant crowds – no drunkenness, no over turned cars, just joy for
their team and country.
July 11
Left Rome at the crack of dawn. Taxi left
hotel 0630 train left 0742. Nearly 12 hours on 2 different trains.
Rome to Innsbruck then Innsbruck to Salzburg. Arrived at the hotel
via taxi. Had dinner at a local beer garden recommended by Rick
Steves. Jan even drank a beer! The beer garden was pretty good with
generous full mugs and typical German fare – dumplings anyone? In
the morning got up & strolled. Salzburg, like any other place on the
planet has grown but I remember many things from the 1975 visit.
Revisited river and main square with statue of Mozart & fountain.
There is a modern art piece in the square - an upside down, crashed
helicopter. Doesn’t quite fit the baroque atmosphere. Best part of
all I was able to buy clean shirts as previous laundry attempts
failed. Lucky for me because 6 shirts 2 jockey shorts & 1 pair of
socks would have run 60 euros.
July 12
Train left Salzburg for Schladming at 1109.
Got into Schladming 1255. Gorgeous alpine scenery albeit somewhat
overcast. Really felt like Carnegie or John D. Rockefeller as we had
a private car from Salzburg all the way to Schladming. Taxi to hotel
and a band was playing as we arrived. Older hotel in the heart of
town. Checked in early & got info regarding concerts from the
friendly proprietor & call to festival headquarters. Saw another
band in the square then watched a funeral coming from the church
where the Poly band was to perform at 1800. Arrived at the church &
greeted Bill Johnson. He introduced us to the entire band as
contributors / patrons / former participants. "We said a few words
and were treated to a sincere and genuine round of applause from the
entire group". Very gratifying & heartfelt. Went back to hotel
1 block from concert site. Very nice German cuisine & beer for
dinner. A terrific night indeed.
July 13
Up kind of early for 0900 train. Smooth
connections Schladming - Salzburg Munich - Nuremberg. Fortuitous
connection to Bayreuth with minutes to spare. Hot and sweaty 2nd
class to Bayreuth. Hotel ended up being 1 block from train station.
Checked in walked to Festespeilhaus. Jan was really dragging.
Greatly disappointed there are no tours during their rehearsal
period. Walked even more - Jan was cranky but felt better after
dinner. Very late so will turn in. Very busy street & lots of noise
- even for one who is half deaf.
July 14
Upon entering the breakfast room, a large,
friendly, albeit elderly mastiff greeted us. Went to both the Wagner
& Liszt museums. Bought tee shirts & other souvenirs. Red suitcase
is getting heavier & heavier. Odd CD of Wagner redone with with
Latin flavor. Will be interesting to hear. At this moment we are on
a crowded train to Nuremberg. Arrived Munich in a rainstorm. Took
taxi for 60 euros but well worth the expense. Subway / bus would
have been 20 & that leaves a shuttle ride to hotel for another 20.
Got some dinner & repacked. VERY glad to reduce weight on the red
suitcase. Hope Jan sells it at garage sale. To bed then flight home.
July 15
Long flight home. Shuttle & finding our way
around airport pretty easy. Customs made me turn cameras on. Jan got
through with no fuss. July 15 is STILL going on! After cruising at
34,000 feet for nearly 10 hours, we are over Georgia, circling the
entire state several times as there are severe thunderstorms over
the airport. Captain informs that the tower wants us to keep
circling but after a long flight bucking headwinds, the plane must
refuel. We head for Knoxville, Tennessee. Refuel and wait for an
hour while storms pass Atlanta. By this time, our flight to
Sacramento has left. We finally arrive in Atlanta wondering if we
will have an unauthorized extra night of vacation at an airport
hotel and need to launder the micro fiber jockey shorts once more.
After a few trips the entire length of the ABCD and E concourses, we
finally get accurate information as to where an 8:12 flight will
depart. Needless to say, many passengers have had delays and need to
catch later flights. Including Jan and I there are at least eight
passengers who want the 8:12 flight to Sacramento. There is a family
with very young children who can’t be accommodated, are angered and
leave. The same scenario takes place with a single traveler. The
poor ticket station attendant has had more than her share of abuse
and there is absolutely nothing she can do about it. She has to sit
there and take it. I just hang out very near the desk making sure
Jan and I are on the standby list. Jan is resting and levitating her
swollen ankle. As all “zones” and classes are called and board, I
stay by the desk. A few late people run frantically to the desk and
board the aircraft. Another attendant comes out and signals to the
desk attendant. The desk attendant grins and says, “Fair is fair …
Mounts?” We are the last two people who get the last two seats to
Sacramento. Another four hours in the air and we arrive in
Sacramento about 10:30. By the time we get our red suitcase, the
Airporter shuttle has left for the evening. Another taxi ride to
Davis gets us to 606 Isla Pl. Shower and crash heavily after a
25-hour transit from Munich to Davis.
July 16
I’m up after the usual seven and a half hours.
We are starving and go to a wonderful new restaurant “Bistro 33”.
Delicious, hearty breakfast and Bloody Mary's. Kind of pricey but
breakfast al fresco in Davis is great and we are glad to be home. A
fabulous trip and worth every penny!
After thoughts and impressions:
"Once I traveled about
in an old bakery wagon, double-doored rattler with a mattress on the
floor, I stopped where people stopped or gathered, I listened and
looked and felt, and in the process had a picture of my country the
accuracy of which was impaired only by my own shortcomings."
... John Stienbeck
This voyage in 2006 relived my personal
memories, dreams and contributions to the world community. It was in
1975 that I had an opportunity, thanks to the patrons of California
State Polytechnic University, San Luis Obispo; Professor William
Johnson; the state of California and my parents, Billy and Ruth
Mounts, to perform in Europe. I also met my life partner, Janet.
This summer sojourn was also an opportunity to return to these
people my appreciation in allowing me to experience, look, listen
and feel then revel in the moment.
This brief voyage, where I had a chance to see
things dating to ancient times, brought to the forefront the
realization that today is not the end all and be all. We have a past
and future to consider. The various civilizations that have gone
before are now gone and our current society will be a bunch of
bricks, stones, timbers, statues and paintings left to grace the
halls of museums, galleries and archeological sites that future
generations will gawk at.
Can we, today, wonder in amazement at these
past triumphs and think we are the epitome of achievement and
civility? Are our habits and customs superior to those in other
places? We must not judge for better or for worse; we must consider
how others go through life, dream their dreams and pursue their
goals as merely different or accomplished in another way. The same
as it is with our partners, colleagues and companions. If our
children, the next generation, are to be successful they will become
non judgmental and keep an eye to the past as well as the future. It
was quite a pleasure to travel with people of various ages and
backgrounds then witness their reactions to our travels and
experiences.
Regarding the practical matters of traveling
more than 12,000 miles in 15 days, a little help is always welcome.
Travel agents and the web can be your friends. However, I was
gratified to know that my own initiatives were successful and
worthwhile. Be bold and try some different foods, a different way of
sleeping and a different way of getting from point A to point B. Try
to find the winding street that ends up down an alley with a 45 foot
geranium planter and go ahead and treat your companions to
conversation, laughter and $65 worth of coffee. Enjoy and empathize
in your colleagues pickles – how can anyone get caught 6,500 miles
away from home with only the shirt on their backs, their passport
and a few dollars and they can't even acquire, at any cost, clean
underwear that fits?
All in all, Janet and I wish you the best of
adventures and the best of vision to see and revel in your past as
well as look to the future and welcome it.